15 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

The Saville Style Blog is here to tell you how to choose a suit, how to wear a suit and, most importantly, how not to wear a suit. Follow these 15 simple rules and you can’t go wrong!

Rule No.1: The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel. 

This general rule of thumb is often forgotten about, but it is vital to ensure the width of the tie matches the width of the lapel. According to Black Lapel, the widest point of the tie should match the widest point of the lapel. Stick to this rule to achieve a more balanced look.

Rule No. 2: Your belt should be thin, and the same color as your shoes. 

Thick, chunky belts are fast-becoming a thing of the past. It’s all about the skinny belt nowadays. It is also vital to ensure the color of your belt matches the color of your shoes. There is nothing worse than a black belt with brown shoes & vice versa!

Rule No. 3: To avoid ruining your jacket, always remember to unbutton it before sitting down. 

Failure to do this means your buttons may pop off, or the jacket itself could rip, stretch and wrinkle!

Rule No. 4: The no.1 thing to check when buying an off-the-rail suit is the shoulder fit.


Shoulder pads should come to the end-point of the shoulder, not half-way down the arm or near the neck! Shoulders are the hardest part of the suit to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick up or stick out.

Rule No. 5: To achieve a more casual, trendy look, go with a single-button jacket with peaked lapels. 


This type of jacket is perfect over knitwear with jeans or chinos for a trendy semi-casual look.

Rule No.6: To achieve a more formal, business-style look, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket. 


This look is perfect for all formal occasions.

Rule No. 6: You should be able to slip your hand inside your suit jacket so that it has room to move, while still remaining relatively snug. 


If your hand moves too freely, it’s too big, and if you can’t fit your hand in, it’s too small!

Rule No. 7: To stop your pants from falling off the hanger, use the Savile Row fold. 


How annoying is it when your pants slide off the hanger? This fold gives your suit pants just enough grip to hold them in place without causing wrinkles. Hey presto!

Rule No. 8: Your shirt should expose about a half-inch through the sleeve cuff. 


1/2 an inch, no more, no less! For a symmetrical, harmonious look, try to match the cuff lenght to the amount of collar visible at the back of the neck.

Rule No.9: Once you have purchased a suit, you will need a seam ripper or a small pair of scissors.


Un-stitch the jacket pockets, the stitching on the jacket’s vents, and remove the embroidred label from the jackets left sleeve. Be careful not to rip the fabric when doing this!

Rule No.10: Your tie should always be darker than your shirt.


This enhances the contrast between your shirt and tie. Always remember to match your tie to your clothing, and not your clothing to your tie.

Rule No. 11: If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt/t-shirt. 


This will absorb sweat and prevent sweat patches. Try to get a vest/t-shirt that is tight fitted with a low-neck. This will avoid excess bulk and the shirt wont peak through!

Rule No. 12: Make sure your socks are long so that there’s no exposed skin when you sit down. 


Lets be honest…nobody wants to see your hairy legs!

Rule No. 13: Match your shoes to the color of your suit, using this guide:


There’s nothing worse than when a perfectly good suit is ruined because of non-matching shoes. You can’t
go wrong with this guide!

Rule No. 14: Pocket squares are the perfect accessory to add attention to detail and a polished, finishing touch to your suit, but remember; make sure they don’t match your tie’s pattern or fabric. 


Rule No.15: Finally, never EVER wear a sports watch with a suit. 


Just don’t do it. Keep it classy with a decent watch. You are wearing a suit, after all, not a track suit.

Bespoke Tailoring

Daniel-Craig-Wearing-A-Suit-In-James-Bond-ImagesAre you ready to take a leap into the world that is bespoke tailoring? Have you always wondered how celebs such as Daniel Craig, David Beckham and Conor Mcgregor look as if their clothes have been hand-crafted from scratch, stitched to perfection to suit their specific body proportions? Well, that’s because they have, and it’s a fast-growing service trend that seems to be appearing in destination menswear stores all over the country.  But it’s not as intimidating as you think. Let the Saville Style Blog give you the low-down on everything you need to know about bespoke made to measure tailoring.

What is bespoke made to measure tailoring?

Bespoke made to measure tailoring is a process whereby the customer creates his very on tailor-made suit from scratch. At Saville, no detail is surpassed as our team ensure everything from the fabric lining of your suit to the positioning of your jacket pocket is tailored specifically to suit your needs. Your personal specialist will work with you from start to finish to ensure that your suit is tailored to perfection, suiting your every need. Made to Measure at Saville gives you the opportunity to create a tactile expression of your own personality because, after all, each suit should be as unique as the man who wears it!

1. The Tailored FittingBastedlapels2014021214174720150217180247446

The journey begins with your initial fitting consultation. This process involves custom measurement and sizing, whereby our team will carefully detail your measurements, establishing the perfect style, size and fit for you. Even a few millimetres can decipher whether or not a garment of clothing fits well, or fits perfectly. It is not just about making the best even better, is it about giving each made to measure suit an individual shape. Every single millimetre counts at this stage of the journey. The result? A made to measure garment that feels like proverbial second skin.


2. The Fabric Selection 

We will then exhibit our fabric selection for the exterior of your new custom-made suit. With over 1000 luxurious fabrics to choose from, our specialists will allow you to browse our very own hand-crafted fabric display books, showcasing our variety of patterns, colours and materials from the finest Italian mills. With our expert knowledge and your unique vision, we will help you to choose a fabric that best suits the purpose of your new suit, be it for corporate or leisure usage.

3. The Finer Details ButtonattachmentHM2014021214175420150217180255511

This stage of your made to measure journey encompasses the inclusion of your individual, distinctive style. Our specialists will guide you through all of the possible options in relation to the overall style of your suit. Our hand-crafted display books will assist you in determining the precise details of your suit, covering everything from the pocket size, type and location, to the closure and lapel style, the waistband length of your trouser, all down to the inclusion of a mobile phone pocket inside your suit jacket. You can even create your own unique button style, or chose to embroider your wedding date on the inside of their jacket.


4. Collection of your Bespoke Masterpiece 

The final stage in your bespoke journey is the collection of your very own, custom-made suit. Our team will make arrangements so that you can collect your new bespoke piece the day it arrives in store, just six weeks prior to the initial consultation. Your specialist will meet with you on the day of arrival to ensure the suit not only meets, but exceeds your expectations.

So there you have it! Everything you need to know about bespoke tailoring at Saville Menswear Cork. To book an appointment with one of our specialists, call us on (021) 427 0334 or visit us at 43 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork City.