The Saville Style Blog is here to tell you how to choose a suit, how to wear a suit and, most importantly, how not to wear a suit. Follow these 15 simple rules and you can’t go wrong!
Rule No.1: The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
This general rule of thumb is often forgotten about, but it is vital to ensure the width of the tie matches the width of the lapel. According to Black Lapel, the widest point of the tie should match the widest point of the lapel. Stick to this rule to achieve a more balanced look.
Rule No. 2: Your belt should be thin, and the same color as your shoes.
Thick, chunky belts are fast-becoming a thing of the past. It’s all about the skinny belt nowadays. It is also vital to ensure the color of your belt matches the color of your shoes. There is nothing worse than a black belt with brown shoes & vice versa!
Rule No. 3: To avoid ruining your jacket, always remember to unbutton it before sitting down.
Failure to do this means your buttons may pop off, or the jacket itself could rip, stretch and wrinkle!
Rule No. 4: The no.1 thing to check when buying an off-the-rail suit is the shoulder fit.
Shoulder pads should come to the end-point of the shoulder, not half-way down the arm or near the neck! Shoulders are the hardest part of the suit to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick up or stick out.
Rule No. 5: To achieve a more casual, trendy look, go with a single-button jacket with peaked lapels.
This type of jacket is perfect over knitwear with jeans or chinos for a trendy semi-casual look.
Rule No.6: To achieve a more formal, business-style look, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.
This look is perfect for all formal occasions.
Rule No. 6: You should be able to slip your hand inside your suit jacket so that it has room to move, while still remaining relatively snug.
If your hand moves too freely, it’s too big, and if you can’t fit your hand in, it’s too small!
Rule No. 7: To stop your pants from falling off the hanger, use the Savile Row fold.
How annoying is it when your pants slide off the hanger? This fold gives your suit pants just enough grip to hold them in place without causing wrinkles. Hey presto!
Rule No. 8: Your shirt should expose about a half-inch through the sleeve cuff.
1/2 an inch, no more, no less! For a symmetrical, harmonious look, try to match the cuff lenght to the amount of collar visible at the back of the neck.
Rule No.9: Once you have purchased a suit, you will need a seam ripper or a small pair of scissors.
Un-stitch the jacket pockets, the stitching on the jacket’s vents, and remove the embroidred label from the jackets left sleeve. Be careful not to rip the fabric when doing this!
Rule No.10: Your tie should always be darker than your shirt.
This enhances the contrast between your shirt and tie. Always remember to match your tie to your clothing, and not your clothing to your tie.
Rule No. 11: If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt/t-shirt.
This will absorb sweat and prevent sweat patches. Try to get a vest/t-shirt that is tight fitted with a low-neck. This will avoid excess bulk and the shirt wont peak through!
Rule No. 12: Make sure your socks are long so that there’s no exposed skin when you sit down.
Lets be honest…nobody wants to see your hairy legs!
Rule No. 13: Match your shoes to the color of your suit, using this guide:
There’s nothing worse than when a perfectly good suit is ruined because of non-matching shoes. You can’t
go wrong with this guide!
Rule No. 14: Pocket squares are the perfect accessory to add attention to detail and a polished, finishing touch to your suit, but remember; make sure they don’t match your tie’s pattern or fabric.
Rule No.15: Finally, never EVER wear a sports watch with a suit.
Just don’t do it. Keep it classy with a decent watch. You are wearing a suit, after all, not a track suit.